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December 25, 2011

A Roman Christmas : Fish, an Aqueduct and Preparing for Father Christmas

Our Roman family’s day-before-Christmas began, and as tradition dictates, with the selection of fish for the classic Christmas Eve feast. In our case two local bluefish, stellina and ombrina, which my son Nathan Louis prepared “al cartoccio”, steamed in paper — but here we are moving many hours ahead.

Nathan Louis receives his fish
Cleaning the ombrina and the stellina
Explaing a fish recipe
A kilo of baby clams

We had many favorite market people to wish “Auguri !” to, as well as to patronize for three days of fruits and vegetables (our holiday lasts through Monday.)

Merry Christmas to Loredana
Peppers, spring onion and oranges
Artichokes ready to be trimmed. We will prepare these baked with crispy thin potatoes and Parmesan

We also visited the neighborhood pastry store for breakfast

The Christmas Eve Morning Caffe Latte

and to admire their wondrous window.

La Torta Presepio (Christmas Creche Cake)

While Indian Summer lasted nearly all of November and through the first weeks of December, today was unusually cool, with a sharp wind and drizzle, but for half an hour late this morning, the sun broke through the clouds — just as we arrived at a destination we love for a day-before-Christmas walk, the magical Parco degli Acquedotti (Park of the Aqueducts) crossed on one side by the ancient Roman Aqua Felix aqueduct and containing part of the ancient Roman Aqua Claudia aqueduct.

Aqua Claudia (38-52 AD)
Aqua Claudia (38-52 AD)
Isabel on the Aqua Claudia (38-52 AD)

When we returned, we noted that three little roses were in bloom on our terrace — our White Christmas roses, the children call them.

The White Christmas Roses

After Christmas carols this evening at the Anglican church on Via del Babuino, we stopped to admire a large scale presepio (creche) on the Spanish Steps and then the theatrical green, red and white lights, and glorious snow flakes, that regale Via del Corso and Via Condotti, among others.

Nathan Louis set to work, when home, on his quite succulent fish dish.

Nathan preparing the ombrina and the stellina

We lit our menorah

Lighting the menorah

and the children prepared a feast for Father Christmas and his reindeer, including wine, olive oil, taralli and for the reindeer, various fruits and carrots.

And now all is quiet and snug, and the adults await the peeling of Roman church bells — hundreds — around midnight.

Rome is a magnificent place to be for Christmas.  With this blog come my warmest wishes to you for the happiest of holidays.

Meet Marjorie

Insider’s Italy is an experienced family business that draws on my family’s four generations of life in Italy. I personally plan your travels. It is my great joy to share with you my family’s hundred-year-plus archive of Italian delights, discoveries and special friends.

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Marjorie’s Italy Blog comes to you from Italy and is a regular feature written for curious, independent Italy lovers. It is enjoyed both by current travelers and armchair adventurers.