Guest Posting : Paradise on Pellestrina

This fifth guest posting is from Marv in San Francisco.

Back in the last century, in the early ’90s, I was preparing for an Italian vacation.  A popular travel magazine featured an article on lesser-known islands in the Venetian lagoon.  Particularly captivating was a description of Da Celeste, an enchanting sounding all-local restaurant on Pellestrina, a working fishing settlement strung along the Lagoon’s sea walls.

Portrayed as a favorite weekend destination for Venetians who would dock alongside the restaurant in their private boats, as well as a traditional favorite for Pellestrinesi, the restaurant sounded enchanting both for its environment and its food.  I immediately knew that I absolutely had to find my way to Da Celeste, but how?  At the end of the article was a list of resources.  Among the resources was Insider’s Italy, a personalized Italian travel planning company.  I immediately reached out, and so began many wonderful Italian adventures planned by my now dear friend, Marjorie Shaw.  Little did I know at the time that I would become one of Insider’s Italy’s first clients!

Marjorie (who said “of course I know the restaurant and recommend it !”) secured a reservation for Sunday lunch during our stay in Venice, which was none too easy a feat. Tables were highly sought out, especially on the terrace directly aside the water.  In what I was to learn was Insider’s Italy standard policy, Marjorie provided intensely detailed information for our day trip to Pellestrina.  Apparently, we had two options for the journey:  1) we could charter a private water taxi to traverse the lagoon and bring us directly to the restaurant, or 2) we could arrive on the island by “public” transport and make our way to Da Celeste on our own.

Well, this was 30 years ago, and as a less experienced traveler I decided to forego the splurge of an expensive private boat trip.  Instead, I opted for public transport.  Insider’s Italy meticulously outlined our journey to Pellestrina.  First, we would hop on a Vaporetto near our hotel and disembark at the Lido.  Then a short walk to Santa Maria Elisabetta where we would board the #11 bus to Pellestrina.  Thirty years ago not that many people made the bus trip on Sundays.  So, the buses ran on a fairly infrequent schedule.  We caught the earlier bus to ensure we allowed sufficient time, and the adventure began.

We travelled along the long finger of land heading away from central Venice.  The bus bounced and rumbled until we arrived at a dock, where it stopped, and we waited, and waited.  After some time, the ferry arrived.  We stood outside the bus and watched as everyone disembarked, then we walked onto the ferry and the bus boarded behind us.  (I must admit that several times along this journey I quietly wished I had “splurged” on the private water taxi.)

The ferry sounded its horn and off we went into the lagoon.  We splashed through the water for quite a bit, then the ferry slowed and gently pulled up to the island’s dock.  We exited the ferry, followed by the bus, which then stopped so we could board.

We bounced along the road for a while until we arrived in the town.  Off the bus we went and began excitedly searching for the restaurant.  We were just a tiny bit worried as we were a little past our reservation time.  Shortly, we found the spot, a white, nondescript building across the road from a lovely covered dining pavilion on the waterside.  The sounds of happy diners rang through the air, and the most enchanting aromas emanated from the kitchen.  Plates loaded with beautiful seafood flew by headed for hungry diners.  We had found nirvana!

The restaurant was absolutely packed.  It was during the Venice Film Festival, and all the luminaries had headed to Da Celeste for lunch.  But not to worry, of course they had the reservation that Insider’s Italy secured for us.  We sat down, and the host handed us menus and began telling us about the day’s special items.   I told him we had heard about their restaurant in San Francisco (well, to be fair, that is where I read the article) and we wanted to enjoy some wine and try all of their favorite dishes.  With an approving nod, he headed off.  He did return shortly with a few questions such as “do you prefer your misto grilled or fried?” (“both !”)  Then he was off again and a moment later, a bottle of wine and two glasses arrived.  Sparkling wine to start.. the waiter poured the wine. With glasses secured in our hands, our feast began.

Traditional Venetian dishes with the freshest local seafood arrived one after the other, and in abundance.  Our appetizer was the “Degustazione Da Celeste”:  a big selection of the restaurant’s starters, both raw & cooked.   So many wonderful tastes covering a wide variety of super-fresh seafood were placed on our table.  While I don’t remember everything, I do recall mantis shrimp, razor clams, tiny fried fish, and little bitty sea snails.

The setting was magical, the food was wonderful, and we ordered a couple of bottles of delicious wine. The meal progressed through primi (including Gnocchetti di Patate con Scampi, among others) and secondi (I remember both grilled and fried fish).   Everything was so good!!!  We ate, we drank, and we were immersed in the setting.  This was the type of experience endures forever in memory.  And we were so fortunate and grateful that Insider’s Italy made it possible.

After dessert and an espresso, it was time to go.  Sated and sleepy we headed out to find the bus and return to Venice.  I lazily sat down in my seat and smiled.  I knew there would be many trips to Italy, and this successful experience suggested to me that this could be the start of a wonderful friendship with Marjorie Shaw and Insider’s Italy.  Marjorie has planned many subsequent Italian adventures for me, with so many insider experiences I could never arrange on my own.   And I have Pellestrina Island to thank for my introduction to Insider’s Italy.

Addendum:  Several years later, I returned for another memorable meal at Da Celeste.  However, this time, I took the private water taxi.