Travel
survey

… More on Winter in Italy, Journey to Puglia

Last month, to further celebrate winter in Italy, we left our home in Rome to travel south to Puglia — an easy three-hour drive to our first destination, Ruvo.

Some essays are best said with images, and not with words. So we will say very little.

Except perhaps that Puglia is one of our single favorite regions in all of Italy, and when we are not there, we always wish that we were.

No other region of Italy holds so much interest for the historian and particularly for the architect : its Norman castles, cathedrals, trulli, masserie, dry walls.

No other region offers cuisine that is more succulent. This is principally an inland cuisine, solidly peasant-based, vegetarian-oriented, and where the profuseness of vegetables and high quality hard wheat yield Italy’s best bread and the most varied and interesting utilization of seasonal produce.

And the olives.

We dream of the olives. There are roughly 60 million olive trees in Puglia — approximately one tree for each Italian. This is the world’s oldest arboreal landscape.  About six million of the trees are considered monumentali or monumental trees and just under half a million trees are known as ulivi secolari or trees older than one century.  No one knows how many trees are between one and two thousand years old but there are many of them — certainly thousands and thousands — whose age has been established through carbon dating.

 

First destination, Ruvo.

DSC_2090
Romanesque arch, Ruvo Cathedral

DSC_2081

Cathedral tabernacle, Ruvo
Pugliese pasta and taralli

En route to our second destination,  Castel del Monte.

Castel del Monte

Overlooking the sea and the surrounding countryside, Castel del Monte was one of the most important castles built  by Frederick II and was constructed in the 1240s. Frederick II’s hunting lodge — or possibly citadel  — was a unique and innovative masterpiece of architecture and engineering.

Windswept
Doorway, interior castle courtyard
Passages
DSC_2122
Cross vaulting
Shadows and light

 

Our second destination, a favorite country inn near Ostuni.

Gateway
A warm welcome.
Doorway from courtyard to garden
The garden
Winter in Puglia
Olive varieties, local production. Unlike Tuscan olives, Puglian olives are picked when red (and very ripe)
Drying the lavender and tomatoes
Old olive press, detail
Ancient olive press, less ancient mechanism for turning the wheels
Entrance to main house
Contentment on a cool winter’s night
Bottom of the stairs
Timeless comfort from another era
Left, wedding dress of owner’s mother. Right, festival dress from Ostuni
1949 Fiat, getting ready for a tour of the olive grove
To the ancient olives
Welcome
May I have this dance?
How old are you?
1,000 to 2,000 years.  What’s 1,000 years to a tree ?
And how old are you?

Centuries old dry wall
Playing in an olive tree that is over 1000 years old.
Playing in an olive tree that is over 1000 years old.

On the road to Trani…

P1080853

Long abandoned trulli compound
Cabbage patch and ancient olive grove

 

Our final destination, the coastal city of Trani…

Trani Cathedral
Castle

Bell tower
DSC_2295
Trani Cathedral at dusk

Lighthouse

Subscribe to receive
Marjorie's blog via email!

Marjorie’s Italy Blog comes to you from Italy and is a regular feature written for curious, independent Italy lovers. It is enjoyed both by current travelers and armchair adventurers.